Imagine stepping into a bustling market, where the air is filled with the enticing aroma of simmering onions, hearty beans, tender cabbage, and rich, braised meat. This scene unfolds around 10:30 AM at box 37 in Testaccio Market, where Chef Leonardo Cioni, a tall culinary talent from San Giovanni Valdarno—nestled between Florence and Arezzo—has passionately operated his eatery, Sicché Roba Toscana, for over three and a half years. The name roughly translates to "therefore Tuscan stuff," and the steam wafting from his kitchen serves as an irresistible invitation, drawing curious patrons' eyes to the chalkboard menu above the counter, revealing the delicious offerings of the day.
One dish that consistently appears on the menu is lampredotto, a unique delicacy made from the cow's fourth stomach. Often described as the most succulent and delicate tripe, lampredotto has a curious appearance reminiscent of a damp dishcloth combined with a ruffled shirt. To prepare this dish, it is gently simmered for about ninety minutes in a fragrant broth crafted from onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes, parsley, and basil, then seasoned simply with salt and pepper before being served in a roll, often accompanied by a spoonful of zesty salsa verde.
In addition to lampredotto, Leonardo also crafts trays of torta di ceci, which are baked chickpea flour pancakes similar to farinata. These pancakes are typically sandwiched within a flatbread known as schiaccia, which can be further filled with various cured meats or cheeses. While the rest of the menu changes daily, it reliably features a bean dish, at least one soup made with legumes and vegetables (often thickened with polenta or bread), a long-braised stew, and perhaps a ragu.
A couple of months back, it was the inviting steam from the ragu di capocollo that captured my attention. It was so alluring that we, feeling like kids at heart but in middle-aged bodies, returned to the vibrant tile counter an hour and a half later to savor it. The ragu was rich and dense, boasting a luscious red hue with an oily sheen, perfectly paired with pillowy potato gnocchi.
Capocollo, also referred to as pork neck or pork collar, hails from the upper portion of the pig’s shoulder. This cut is notably well-marbled with fat, contributing to the ragu’s remarkable juiciness. The delightful interplay of meat and fat not only enhances the ragu’s flavor but also allows it to harmonize beautifully with three robust herbs: bay leaves, sage, and rosemary. What particularly impressed me about Leonardo's rendition is his choice to use minced capocollo instead of braising a whole piece of meat and shredding it afterward. While both methods yield delicious results, I personally favor the texture that comes from using minced meat. For those looking for alternatives, combining leaner cuts with some back bacon can achieve similar succulence—the key is ensuring there’s enough fat to keep the dish rich and flavorful.
Here’s how you can recreate this delightful pork ragu with herbs, perfect for serving over gnocchi or pasta:
Serves 4
- 400g of pork mince (ideally well-marbled, such as from the neck, shoulder, or jowl)
- 3-4 tablespoons of olive oil
- 1 medium onion or three shallots, peeled and finely chopped
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sage leaves
- 2 sprigs of rosemary (with one minced and one left whole)
- A pinch of salt
- 1 small glass of dry white wine
- A 400g tin of crushed plum tomatoes or tomatoes passed through a food mill
- 1 tablespoon of tomato concentrate
- 500g of potato gnocchi or fresh pappardelle
- Grated parmesan or grana padano cheese for serving
Begin by heating a heavy-based pan or casserole over medium-low heat, adding the minced pork along with olive oil. Stir the meat around the pan until it loses its pink color. Next, incorporate the chopped onion, bay leaves, sage, both the minced and whole rosemary, and a pinch of salt. Continue to cook and stir until the onion turns translucent.
Pour in the white wine and let it bubble for a minute or two before adding the tinned tomatoes, the tomato concentrate, an additional pinch of salt, and a small glass of warm water. Cover the pan partially with a lid and reduce the heat, allowing the ragu to simmer gently for approximately two hours. Be sure to check and stir occasionally, adding more warm water if the mixture appears too dry. The goal is a ragu that is thick yet juicy, crowned with a shiny layer of oil.
When you’re ready to serve, cook the gnocchi (or your chosen pasta) in a pot of generously salted boiling water, then transfer it to a warm bowl. Add a sprinkle of finely grated parmesan or grana padano, toss it together, and then mix in half of the ragu. Divide the mixture among four plates or shallow bowls, topping each serving with additional ragu and cheese, if desired.
