Celine’s menswear journey is a tale of bold reinvention, and its Fall 2026 collection proves that this French powerhouse is far from done surprising us. But here’s where it gets intriguing: despite being a relative newcomer to menswear—launched just seven years ago under Hedi Slimane’s visionary leadership—Celine is already carving out a unique space that blends timeless elegance with a rebellious edge. Established in 1945 and owned by LVMH since 1996, the brand’s foray into menswear was a strategic move that has paid off in spades, thanks in part to Slimane’s unmistakable influence.
Even today, Slimane’s legacy lingers at Celine’s Rue Vivienne headquarters, where the brand unveiled Michael Rider’s Fall 2026 collection in the very rooms where the American designer made his runway debut as artistic director just last July. And this is the part most people miss: while Slimane’s signature touches—like those iconic pointy, Cuban-heeled boots paired with skinny jeans—are still present, Rider has quietly but confidently stamped his own identity on the brand. His super-flat sneakers, loafers, and lace-up ballerinas outnumbered Slimane’s designs, signaling a shift toward a more grounded, wearable aesthetic.
In a remarkably short time, Rider has infused Celine’s classic wardrobe with subtle yet impactful updates. Think preppy touches, nostalgic nods, and a distinctive, understated patina—nothing too flashy, rigid, or high-contrast. Here’s where it gets controversial: is this a dilution of Slimane’s bold vision, or a necessary evolution for a brand expanding its appeal? The slightly raised waists on belted wool coats, the square-bottomed silk neckties, and the shiny gold buttons on boxy melton blazers all hint at Rider’s ability to modernize without erasing the past. Even the offbeat creases on double-breasted jacket sleeves feel like a quiet rebellion against tradition.
The collection’s presentation was equally thoughtful, with garments hung from pegs on the wall—a nod to how Rider displays scarves in Celine boutiques—rather than on Slimane’s imposing marble slabs and Art Deco fixtures. The styled looks exuded the effortless nonchalance that has become Rider’s hallmark.
The ’90s influence was undeniable, from the generous cut of tailored coats to the French blue dress shirts and the moleskin trim on a camel coat. But Rider also offered versatility, as seen in the towering stacks of jeans and sweaters in an array of washed colors, proving that his vision is as inclusive as it is refined.
Rider himself was absent from the presentation, and true to form, he didn’t over-explain his work. “Classics with bite,” he said in a brief statement—a phrase that perfectly encapsulates his approach. Another way to put it? “Character over costume.”
But here’s the question that lingers: As Celine continues to evolve under Rider’s direction, will it retain the edge that made it a menswear contender, or will it soften into something more mainstream? One thing’s for sure: this collection proves that Celine is unafraid to take risks, even if it means sparking debate. What do you think? Is Rider’s vision the right direction for Celine, or do you miss Slimane’s bolder touch? Let’s discuss in the comments!
