The fashion industry is abuzz with anticipation as it catches the first glimpse of Armani's future without its legendary founder, Giorgio Armani. But who will fill the shoes of the iconic designer, and what will become of the brand's signature style? This is the burning question on everyone's minds since the sad passing of Mr. Armani in September 2025, as reported by The Guardian (https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2025/sep/04/giorgio-armani-celebrated-italian-fashion-designer-dies-at-91).
And on a Monday afternoon in Milan, the wait was over. The world witnessed the debut of Leo Dell'Orco, the designer's long-time collaborator and confidant, at the helm of the Italian fashion house. Dell'Orco, who worked alongside Armani for four decades, now takes the reins of menswear, presenting a collection that is both a tribute to the past and a step into the unknown.
Armani's signature style, characterized by relaxed suiting, fluid silk, velvet, and cashmere in his unique 'greige' shade, has been a staple in the fashion world. But Dell'Orco's debut collection took a daring turn, retaining only the color palette while shifting towards vibrant jewel tones. The classic Armani uniform of velvet coordinates, cashmere shackets, and polo shirts was reimagined in amethyst, sapphire, and lapis blue hues, a bold move that caught the attention of fashion enthusiasts.
But here's where it gets interesting. Dell'Orco also infused the collection with a 1980s vibe, featuring leather bomber jackets, aviator-inspired pieces, and rakish suits reminiscent of the era's iconic styles. This move is a clever nod to the growing demand for vintage Armani, as evidenced by the surge in online searches for the brand after Giorgio's death, with eBay reporting a 192% spike and Vinted seeing a threefold increase.
The menswear press, attending the show in the familiar basement room at Armani HQ, was impressed. Zak Maoui, style director at Gentleman's Journal, noted that Dell'Orco 'left his mark without distorting the iconic brand's legacy.' He added, 'It felt like a celebration of Armani, with a mood shift and upbeat music.' Paul Toner, deputy editor at 10 Magazine, echoed this sentiment, praising Dell'Orco's understanding of the brand's codes and his ability to add youthful touches, such as buttery soft leather jackets.
The future of Armani's creative direction has been a topic of much speculation, especially regarding the biannual collections. While Dell'Orco has taken charge of menswear, Silvana, Armani's niece, continues as the womenswear design director. Rumors have been swirling about potential successors, with Hedi Slimane, former creative director of Celine and Dior Homme, being a recurring name.
The brand's show notes hinted at Dell'Orco's long-term vision, suggesting his 40-year partnership with Giorgio Armani has prepared him for this moment. But the question remains: is this a temporary transition or a permanent shift? The show's finale, with Dell'Orco taking a bow alongside his nephew Gianluca, the head of the menswear style office, left the audience wondering about the future leadership of the fashion house.
Adding to the intrigue, Giorgio Armani's posthumous wishes are being enacted by a new board of directors appointed in November. Despite his commitment to independence, Armani's will instructed his heirs to sell significant stakes in the business to specific buyers, including L'Oréal, EssilorLuxottica, and LVMH, within a strict timeframe. The fashion world awaits the next chapter in this iconic brand's story, with many wondering how these changes will shape Armani's legacy.
